As you may have gathered from my previous reviews, I am not the sort of person who enjoys things like cupcakes, dressing up like a 50s housewife or anything describable as “kooky”. That said, it might surprise you to learn that I’ve been visiting Eteaket since it opened.

Why is this? Well, part of the reason is it’s just so damn convenient. Nestled in a basement on Frederick Street, Eteaket attracts shoppers, students, tourists and locals alike to its unprepossessing white doors.  It’s always stuffed to the gills, though, especially at the weekends – we chose a relatively quiet Friday afternoon for our visit and it was still bustling.  Inside there’s a bright, bold colour scheme of white, teal and hot pink (it sounds worse than it is, really), ruined only by the phrase “Keep Calm And Have A Cup Of Tea” stuck to one wall.  If you can avoid looking at it and twitching – harder than it sounds, since the opposite wall is mirrored – then the rest of the decor won’t raise your blood pressure too much.   A nod to vintage of course, but done in a modern enough way not to come over as too mimsy.

Anyway, to the main event.  The tea at Eteaket is consistently excellent.  There’s a simple system in place; you order your tea and they bring it to your table with a sand-timer – when the sand runs out, it’s ready to drink.  (I honestly have no idea why other tea shops don’t do this, preferring to make you play some kind of tea-based cross between a game of chicken and Russian Roulette just to find out whether it’s brewed enough).  There are some rare and interesting varieties on offer; my tasting partner chose Organic Silver Needle, which had a floral bouquet with notes of melon and a lovely smooth finish.  I had my favourite Earl Gray Vert, a blend of sencha green tea with bergamot oil and citrus.  The classics are well-chosen too, the Royal Earl Gray in particular is light and fresh, with tiny blue cornflowers strewn throughout the leaves.

There’s a good selection of cakes, although in the past the quality has been inconsistent. Today’s scone was a delight, however, light and moist with a good amount of fruit and that all-important crispy brown top.  For a real treat, there’s afternoon tea, served on a three-tiered stand with sandwiches, scones, miniature patisserie desserts and the palpable envy of everyone in the café who isn’t having it too.  Tea with a side of schadenfreude, if you will.

What’s great about Eteaket is not only do they seem to really care about tea, even creating their own special blends (I’d recommend the Rooibos Creme Caramel in particular), but they’re also passionate about making it interesting and accessible to everyone.  I might take issue with the number of times the word “lovely” appears on the signs in their shop, but the effervescent passion it shows is contagious and when it’s paired with attention to detail, attentive staff and a sense of wanting to be part of the community, it becomes hard to fault.


Pekoe Tea

Although I’m still slightly grief-stricken from the loss of Tea Tree Tea, my tasting partner and I made our way to Pekoe Tea in Tollcross on a Saturday afternoon.  The experience was one of singular juxtaposition and I was left feeling more like I’d just come off my break in a warehouse than like I’d spent a pleasant hour in a tea bar.

Straightaway it’s obvious that Pekoe’s main focus is its wholesale business.  They offer a huge selection of teas online, as well as some interesting and odd tea ware, and it’s clear that all their stock comes through the same small premises.  The upshot is a cramped, somewhat untidy seating area crammed in front of the bar and under constant siege by cardboard boxes, strips of packing tape and shelf upon shelf of shiny packaged tea.  What made it worse still was the back room isn’t separate from the main part of the cafe, so we were treated to an overweight man puffing his way through unboxing and pricing up the latest delivery.  Think a white-haired Sal from Futurama and you’d be just about there (these gourmets teas ain’t gonna unboxes themselfs!).

All that aside, the decor itself (apart from a ghastly enormous golden light fitting in the centre of the ceiling) was all cool urban loft-style living; dark stone and light wood.  Magazines like “The Foodie” and “Homes And Interiors” ruined the 90s Manhatten vibe just a little, but all in all it worked and definitely makes a change from the ubiquitous “vintage chic”.

So after finding a seat and looking confused for a few minutes, we finally got around to placing our order.  I’m not sure how the man who served us managed to maintain such an unflappable air of smugness amongst the chaos, but maintain it he did, right down to the impeccably-styled hair and well-practiced lack of anything approaching customer service.  Although he did recommend a tea, it was done so perfunctorily and with at least five exhortions to “like us on Facebook” that I rather felt we’d have been better sticking a pin in the menu.

The Assam we chose (single estate broken orange pekoe) came in a beautiful Japan Zero teapot, with matching cups and milk jugs.  No timer, no advice on brewing time, just a suggestion to “take the leaves out if it gets too strong”.  Duh.  Obviously this meant the first cup was too weak, the second almost stewed.  I’m not sure why it’s so difficult to just brew the tea for the customer so they get the best possible experience; perhaps I’m missing something.  Excellent tea nonetheless; so good we took a bag of the tippy golden flowery  orange pekoe 1 from the same estate home.  It was overshadowed, however, by the best brownie I have ever eaten, ever.  Ever!  Crispy on the outside with a just-set, gooey  dark chocolate interior full of walnuts – not too sweet, insanely rich and aggressively decadent.  Better still, Pekoe’s cakes all come from a new local bakery; the selection is very small and there’s no savoury options, but Pekoe is not really set up to linger over a lunch.

In conclusion, a mixed review all round.  Pekoe is easily the best place to buy tea in Edinburgh, and it’s surprisingly reasonably priced for what it is.  I’ll be returning to top up my supplies (and I’ll be getting a brownie to go!), but I’m not sure I’ll want to tarry there again.

Pekoe Tea’s online shop can be found at

Cakes by Love Crumbs bakery:

R.I.P. T.T.T.

Okay, so I’m aware that I haven’t updated this with any sort of regularity and also that that’s a massive understatement. The thing is, I went to Tea Tree Tea with the best intentions of doing a review and found it impossible. It’s been my regular tea-based haunt since I moved to Edinburgh nearly four years ago and was to all intents and purposes the perfect tea shop.  How could I pretend to try to find fault in a place I’ve come to love so much?  I just couldn’t, and so the whole project stalled, until now.  Last week I found out that it was closing forever, so I finally have the impetus to restart my quest to find the best tea shop in Edinburgh.

But first, if I may, a brief eulogy for Tea Tree Tea. I’m really going to miss it. The staff were incredible; friendly, knowledgeable and even ecclesiastically patient towards a big group of rowdy types that used to meet there in the basement once a month. Even when I hadn’t been there for a few weeks they would still greet me like a friend. Friendly staff make a friendly atmosphere, and it was the relaxed minimalist ambience of TTT that made it so perfect to work in, or just to hang out.

Not to mention the tea itself; like a fine restaurant, TTT didn’t have an exhaustive selection of teas, but everything on their menu was delicious. The fiery red Assam almost oozed rich caramel, Earl Gray was light and balanced with floral and citrus notes, and their example of my green tea of choice, Ti Quan Yin, was grassy and bright without any bitter edge. Hot chocolate with chilli was a surprisingly complex delight in winter, and in summer, their range of unique coconut milk-based blended iced drinks, called Fricetea were something I’d happily travel across town for.  What’s more, the pot of tea would arrive ready to drink with the leaves removed and a friendly suggestion to stick them back in if it’s too weak.

I have no idea why a business like TTT would fail, with its loyal customer base and winning formula, but I can’t pretend to know much about that sort of thing. All I know is that the best place to get tea in Edinburgh is gone, and I will have to find somewhere else to go on a Saturday afternoon.